30 January 2014

Etching of parts

Etching the parts with Ali Brite to remove the layer of mill scale.
The extra amount of work to do this was worth it in my opinion. I found the metal much better to work with in terms of welding and prep.

Here's a  blurb of what I found on the net.

Mill scale or mill finish either term can be used to describe the coating that comes from the mill on aluminum sheet. Its shiny and is not (chemically the same as) the aluminum and if not removed will cause (facilitate/participate/enable/interact) corrosion of the underlying aluminum.

Look up "galvanic differential" or galvanic corrosion, then the idea will be more clear. There is a slight galvanic difference between the alloy under the mill scale/finish and the parent/native/final/underlying metal. 

Next look up poultice corrosion, this is also facilitated/enabled/created/assisted by the mill scale/finish on marine aluminum alloy sheets/plates. This is where water is kept in contact with the sheet in a tight space and the oxygen goes out of the water so it becomes acidic and then speeds the surface corrosion using the scale/finish to enable the water retention and the reaction. Similar 'cells' in descaled panels show almost no trace of the level of corrosion.

Many boat builders and manufacturers leave the scale on and their boats show the results in a year or two, while 30 year old boats that have been descaled/etched to remove the finish/scale are clean.

This layer also retains atmospheric moisture (dew, condensation, humidity) so much it has to be removed to weld or the weld will have so many porosity gas bubbles it will be structurally unsound. [Many 'sound' MIG welds have some root porosity] However, since this is only needed in the weld zones, and is not always done there either, the remaining surface may or may not have this 'finish' removed, but it is best practice to remove this manufacturing byproduct, just like it is in steel sheet plate, prior to painting, or even if the boat will remain bare metal finish.






Arrival of kit

 HIAB
 5mm bottom plates and extrusions covered up on the right.
4mm sides.
 10 sheets of 5083 aluminium
Small tags hold the parts in the sheets.
 Parts stacked inside.
Parts that require folding.
Bottom sheets.

Welding Machines, Tools and Stuff. (updating)

T&R 250K pulse mig.
*$3700.00

Trolley extension to reach over the gunnells.

 3m speedglas 9100

Miller Dynasty 200DX tig.
*$4500.00

Welding equipment and supplies sourced from ACL Industrial, Bundaberg QLD.
http://www.aclindustrial.com.au/\

Tools and supplies used.






First Boat and welding experience.

My first ever boat was purchased in 2012 which was a 1982 Quintrex 4.4 runabout. I didn't have any experience with boats prior to this and just wanted something to do up and go fishing in. 
The boat required alot of patching work to remove holes made by accessories over the years plus needed new hand/bow rails and more.
I purchased a  Lincoln 180c mig with a spool gun. First time welding aluminium and although the set up I had was problematic it got the job done.
With an upgrade of much better welders and a bit more play time I  feel I am much more comfortable starting this new boat build.

A few pics of old boat
















29 January 2014

CNC Marine 5m (5.35m Overall) Centre Console.

FEATURES


  • Soft Riding Hull With Inverted 'S' Shape Chine
  • 2.24m Beam (1.87m Internal)
  • High Side Gunwales (700mm Deck to Side)
  • 5mm Bottom Plate, 4mm Side Plate, 3mm Decks
  • Full Depth 4mm Frames with Contoured Stringers
  • Raised Forward Deck
  • Large Console with Built in Seat
  • Self Draining Deck
  • Side Pockets
  • Aluminium Bait Board
  • 120 Litre Under Floor Fuel Tank
  • Under Floor Dry Storage
  • Pump Pickup and Recirc Tubes
  • Bait Tank
  • Builders Plate Calculations
  • 4 person Capacity to AS 1799.1 2009
  • Max Power 115HP
  • Recommended Power 90HP

*5mtr centre console kit.
$9950.00
*Delivery to Rockhampton from Brisbane
including HIAB drop off.
$950.00



http://www.cncmarine.com.au/